20 March 2008

Accademia di Vino

1081 Third Avenue
New York, NY 10021
212-888-6333



Being huge fans of ‘Cesca on the Upper West Side, we looked forward to dining at its Upper East Side family member, Accademia di Vino. The transformation of the former Chinese restaurant into an Italian wine bar on the ground level and a subterranean vaulted wine cellar as the main dining room has be outstanding. While not as warm and inviting as ‘Cesca, the design is clearly a strong point.

The menu has many current and former 'Cesca items, perhaps too many for the kitchen to do an excellent job on all of them. Sampling a number of dishes, while none were bad, our clear winners are the pasta dishes, each prepared to perfection. Nonetheless, none of the food here seemed as satisfying as the food served at ‘Cesca.

While to food was very good, just not up to 'Cesca standards, the wait service is another matter. Whereas at ‘Cesca the service always shines, here it barely exists. From rude front desk staff, incompetent waiters, to lost bus boys and runners, this clearly is the Accademie of un-trainable wait staff. In addition, the audio soundtrack seemed more suited for a Lower East Side bar than what tries to be taken as a serious Italian restaurant. So to us it is all about the limited skills, or lack thereof, by this restaurant’s management.

As note by its name, Accademia di Vino has an outstanding and comprehensive Italian wine list and cellar. The list includes many relatively unknown but outstanding wines priced at reasonable levels. Wine service unfortunately is as bad as the overall service.


Accademia di Vino - Acceptable

Bistro Milano

1350 Sixth Avenue (entrance on 55th Street)
New York, NY 10019
212-757-2600


A modern Northern Italian trattoria has established itself in mid-town. This new place is from the management team at BICE and Remi, but here they have selected lower priced fare, while retaining the same focus on service and friendliness.

Bistro Milano’s clear glass French door facade gives it an open and inviting appeal. As soon as good weather arrives a large outdoor eating area will bloom just outside the doorways. The interior decor is somewhat nondescript Italian modern, but not in an offensive way (other than the glaring big flat panel screen above the bar that needs to GO). The simple square room has the potential of being cafeteria like, except that the wait staff assures that while it is busy it is remains an orderly room.

The evolving menu is pure Northern Italian, featuring pure simple Italian dishes. This is a place to go for Italian comfort food, not any experimental food. The kitchen has been executing the Milanese cuisine with excellent preparations from day one. In addition to all these Milanese standards, the kitchen also offers a small pizza menu.

Currently the service crew is all Italian from the front desk, waiters through the managers which provides a sense of stability and customer commitment that is increasingly rare.

The wine list is short and not memorable.



Bistro Milano - Recommended

08 March 2008

Telepan

72 W. 69th Street
New York, NY, 10023
212-580-4300

Continuing our sampling of Upper West Side restaurants, we recently dined at Telepan.

When Bill Telepan opened his eponymous place it became the top dining place on the UWS, and it was impossible to get in, suffered from overbooking and perhaps an unwarranted reputation of having an attitude.

Fortunately now nearly three years later, the place while still popular is accessible, reservations are honored and the only attitude is one of welcoming friendliness and warmth.

The room has both a modern edge coupled with a country style that reflects the dedication to local products. As we had earlier at BLT Market, we were seated next to one of Telepan's purveyors. In this case, it was the pork and ham suppliers Jennifer Small and Michael Yezzi from The Flying Pig Farm (they referred to themselves as the pig farmers) from Shushan, NY near Sarotoga. When they are in Manhattan (they are frequently at the Union Square farmer's market) they stop in, chat with Bill, and have a wonderful meal featuring their ham and pork products prepared in a multitude of ways.

Telepan's menu is composed of three sections; starters, middle and mains (plus desserts). You can dine ala carte or select one of a few different menus (with or without wine pairings). The menu is American modern cuisine, executed to near perfection. In addition to the pork derived dishes there is organic chicken, fresh fish, pasture fed veal (like tender beef), etc.

Service was very good with one exception noted below.


The wine list is comprehensive, grouping wines by styles and regions. Our first disappointment is that excellent local and regional American wines are not featured. We are continually puzzled why a restaurateur features local produce and has virtually no local wines given New York state has some outstanding wines.

Our second disappointment was that wine service apparently is limited to opening the wine and pouring the first serving. No tables in our section during our recent visit had additional pouring of empty glasses of wine. Not what we expect at a top Manhattan restaurant. Very strange.

Overall this is a wonderful dining place and we look forward to many future visits, even if we have to pour our own wine.

Telepan - Highly Recommended





06 March 2008

Lever House Restaurant

390 Park Avenue
New York, NY 10022
212-888-2700

When it opened five years ago, Lever House was one of those immediate trendy places that was the favorite of both foodies and social trendies. Then it seemed to evolve to attracting expense account business types for lunch and too many want-to-bes in the evening.

Well now after the opening of many new places the social moths have moved on, and Lever House in the evening is now in fact a comfortable and enjoyable dining place.

Of course the design and decor of Lever House has been one of its calling cards. The entrance via a Star Trek like tunnel permits the guest to transition from the streets of Manhattan to something that is either the future, or what the future was to look like in the 1950's. The David Rockefeller design does grow on you as the wonderful wood interior and Jetson-like lighting actually works. Clearly the tables/booths along the left side and at the rear are the preferred seating. The endless row of two-tops along the right side is depressing and clearly discriminatory against diners arriving as twos.

The contemporary American menu presents the diner a small but interesting selection of choices which are far more appetizing than the descriptions. There are prix fix menus in addition to the ala cart menu.The execution of Executive Chef - Dan Silverman's kitchen is outstanding, and rivals the best in Manhattan.

The wine list while comprehensive is priced very high. And it was not only our experience but that of the adjoining table that our choice(s) for wine, some of the better value selections, were not available. Never a good sign when they are out of selections at any place and totally unacceptable at a top place. And when the sommelier tried to foist an overpriced mediocre wine on what he suspected was an uneducated diner, it was a clear sign that this side of the house is still desiring expense accounts types and not real food and wine lovers.

So if you love interesting and well prepared modern American cuisine in a unique environment go to Lever House. However, if you are a wine lover, go elsewhere.

Lever House - Recommended

01 March 2008

'Cesca

164 West 75th St.,
New York, NY, 10023
212-787-6300


Even though we live in Midtown, we are negligent in dining on the Upper Westside, which continues a recent trend to be the destination location for interesting new places. Over the next few months we will hopefully report on a number of the newer places.

One fine restaurant that has been around a while that has the combination of excellent food, good service and a wonderful ambiance is ‘Cesca. Unfortunately many people know that fact, and therefore it remains a difficult reservation to obtain. But either with advanced planning or willingness to sit in the more casual open front section, it is worth the effort to dine at ‘Cesca.

'Cesca is an outstanding restaurant. The menu is extensive and the food captures Italian cuisine without trying to exactly duplicate what you would eat in Italy. Rather it incorporates local regional ingredients, flavors and recipes to achieve what we consider a perfect balance of American and Italian cuisines.

As an example on a recent visit we started with two excellent salads, both with fresh ingredients; arugula, radicchio, Gorgonzola, pecans, etc,, and dressed to perfection. For mains we had a perfectly prepared duck and one of the best pork chops each accompanied by Italian inspired sides.

The wine list is an outstanding of excellent Italian wines, moderately priced, featuring lesser known but outstanding examples of the various regions. Wine service is casual and could be improved.

Apart from the wine service, the service at all levels is outstanding. Reservations are honored. The wait staff is knowledgeable and helpful.

The decor is comforting and promotes a relaxed and friendly dinning experience. The front bar area has casual communal seating, but in a very pleasant environment. There are private dinning nooks along the aisle past the open kitchen, and a large, comfortable and perfectly illuminated main dining area. The seating is a series of groupings that provides intimacy despite the large area.


In summary, if 'Cesca was in any place other than Manhattan, it would likely be the best in town.

‘Cesca – Highly Recommended

24 February 2008

Olana

72 Madison Avenue
New York, NY 10016
212-725-4900


Initial Notes:

We went to Olana on Saturday night, the first night that it was opened for the general public. The place is huge, with a large and very popular circular bar area in the front of the house. The large main dinning room was less popular, probably in part due to some weird lighting resulting from a back lighted winter scene which casts a weird florescent lighting pall to the room. The smaller back room was packed, as it is much more intimate, comfortable and far more appropriate for a nice dinner. The banquettes and chairs are bordello red, and much of the décor has a combination of red tones and wood. In additional to the seasonal scenes in the main dining room, there is a large mural of the Hudson River that you will either love or really hate.

The front of the house staff, managers and waiters were very professional, and seemingly well versed. However, the servers and busboys were totally confused and were dressed in mismatched white tops and black pants that seemed more appropriate at an inexpensive Latin American than at a more upscale restaurant.

Hopefully they will quickly fix the main room lighting, and get some training and uniforms for the servers and runners.

What may take longer to fix is a menu and kitchen that seems to have no direction. Part of the menu is Hudson Valley local regional cuisine, and the other part is an interpretation of Italian cuisine. Clearly Chef Al Di Meglio is searching for his own style and while some may like this fusion of two styles, it just didn’t wow us. We sampled both types of dishes and found the duck, rabbit and pork loin dishes not nearly as good as at other top regional places. And the Italian dishes; including burnt orange and duck ravioli, cavatelli with mushrooms, and a Brodetto seafood stew with bulgur (not couscous as listed on the menu), missed the mark and were not up to par with other top Italians. It clear Di Meglio has talent and hopefully he will evolve into a menu that can be executed to perfection by the kitchen staff.

The wine list is being developed according to the sommelier and at the moment is both eclectic and a little weird. It is also very high priced, starting at around $60 a bottle and climbing rapidly into the hundreds of dollars.

We will give Olana a few weeks to iron out the kinks and hopefully allow Di Meglio and the kitchen to find their direction.


Olana - Too Early to Judge

22 February 2008

Strada 57

315 West 57th Street
New York, NY 10019
212-757-1620


There are hundreds of little neighborhood Italian restaurants in Manhattan, and Midtown has its fair share. But finding a very good Italian in the area of 57th Street west of 8th Avenue is a challenge. Fortunately Strada 57 is just the kind of neighborhood place you can stop in without a reservation, be greeted, seated at a nice table, and be served a nice meal.

The restaurant has a nice windowed front seating area, a bar area which occasionally has live jazz music, and then two rooms in the back that have comfortable seating. The décor is somewhat provincial, and clearly not Manhattan interior design.

Service is generally professional and always enthusiastic.

The menu is filled with typical Italian-American choices. The kitchen’s execution is inconsistent; occasionally producing fine versions of classics and occasionally serving up very nice dishes which only have a distant relationship to the Italian originals. Regardless, the food is always satisfying be it home made pastas, meat, poultry or seafood.

The wine list is limited but does have fairly priced Italian reds and whites, and other regional wines. We have always found an interesting bottle that we had not previously tried and frequently been impressed with the quality of the wine.

Strada 57 - Recommended

21 February 2008

Bistro Chat Noir

22 East 66th Street
New York, NY 10021
212-794-2428


Having had a less than memorable dinner at Bar Boulud, we thought we would sample a traditional French Bistro right in Daniel Boulud’s neighborhood. Bistro Chat Noir is owner Suzanne Latapie’s homage to all the little bistros we all love in France. And she has done a great job as we love Chat Noir.

The step down restaurant just off Madison Avenue immediately feels like you have been teleported to Paris. The small bar reception area is like hundreds of places we have visited. And with Suzanne holding down the reception desk, you not only have your reservation honored, you become a Guest at her place.

The room is a long alley with two top and four top tables on the sides, and in a clever move a train of two tops are located down the center of the alley, giving dinning couples an unexpected sense of privacy in the middle of a bustling bistro.

The service staff, always being watched over by Suzanne, is professional and as good as at far more pricey places. We were served promptly, accurately and with a wonderful playful French attitude.

The menu is classic interpretations of French Bistro fare, and there must be a French chef in the kitchen. And while not always as authentic as we may have desired, nonetheless a wonderful collection of classics. Our soups, salads, hot and cold appetizers were just that – appetizing. Classic main courses such as moules frites and steak frites, made with Hereford beef were outstanding.

The wine list is relatively short and composed of primarily French wines. We enjoy seeing wines like Chinons that are frequently not included on Manhattan wine lists. The selections were fine, but unfortunately they were out of a few of our choices, which is a major demerit for any place. However, when we chose a Washington State Colombia Valley merlot, it was surprising good after it had a chance to breath.

As usual we skipped dessert, so we have no notes.



Bistro Chat Noir - Highly Recommended

17 February 2008

Beacon

25 W. 56th Street
New York, NY, 10019
212-332-0500


Having enjoyed BLT Market we decided to return to Beacon, a favorite that was one of the first Midtown restaurants to feature local, in this case Hudson Valley, American regional cuisine.

The décor of Beacon has always been a satisfying blend of Frank Lloyd Wright and Adirondack natural wood styles meeting Manhattan sophisticated interior design. The dining room is multilevel, with a comfortable main dining area, a wood oven/stove open kitchen lower seating area and a wrap around upper balcony seating area including private party dining spaces.

The menu is a wonderful blend of American comfort food. The wood grilled meat, fowl, fish and vegetables have distinctive and appealing flavors. The daily prix fixed menu provides ample choices and great value.

The staff, while perhaps not the best in town, is friendly and helpful.

The wine list that has depth and variety, but unfortunately is not is keeping with the local and regional theme. While there are a few Hudson Valley selections, the wine list would benefit by the addition of more Finger Lakes and Long Island east end New York regional wines. We selected a Washington state Colombia Valley Merlot from Sagelands which was perfect to accompany our filet mignon.

We can summarize by simply stating that the entire dinning experience was one of warmth and comfort.


Beacon – Highly Recommended

10 February 2008

BLT Market

Ritz-Carlton Hotel
1430 Sixth Avenue
New York, NY 10019
212-521-6125


The corner of Central Park South (59th Street) and Sixth Avenue (Avenue of the Americas) that has been the home of many international dining places is now home to an outstanding Regional American run by French owner/chef, Laurent Tourondel, his kitchen staff and his excellent restaurant management team. While we have not been fans of other BLT restaurants around Manhattan, we love BLT Market.

BLT Market is the latest and perhaps the best of the Manhattan artisanal and the locally grown farm produce restaurants featuring the best of the Hudson River Valley and Long Island agricultural purveyors. In fact we were seated next to a large table hosted by BLT Market’s meat purveyor who enjoyed celebrity status with the restaurant management and the executive chef. Yes, this is truly a restaurant that benefits from and takes advantage of the best of local food products, including mounting photos of the purveyors on the walls of the restaurant.

The restaurant’s style is definitely the best of the turn of the century; that is 1900. Plenty of natural wood, zinc buckets, canned vegetables, bottles of honey, fresh cut flowers and wired wound incandescent lamps. The house tap water is served in real milk bottles.

There are three dining areas, the prime room facing Central Park, the entrance room which has a bit of coffee shop feel and a more quiet room off to the right of the entrance. And being directly across the street from the Central Park horse carriages taxi stand, there can occasionally be a faint smell of the horses throughout the rooms, which adds to the country feelings.

We have had excellent service throughout our dining visits. The front desk has always honored our reservation and reservation request for a special table. Our frequent waiter, Sergio, is excellent. Wine service is very professional.

We received wonderful updated versions of pigs in a blanket as our chef’s tasting along with a wonderful fresh, hot garlic and pesto infused baguette. The menu is seasonal featuring produce and other ingredients available at the time. During a recent winter visits, salads were accompanied with winter seasonal produce such as beets and Brussels sprouts and winter seafood. All were outstanding. Our main courses of Amish chicken, Long Island Duck and Berkshire pork chop were very good, both a reflection of a slow cooking approach. A recent northern Halibut dinner was outstanding with a cauliflower puree. And while slow cooking has advocates, it our personal opinion that we prefer our pork chops and chickens roasted in a hot oven which produces crisper and more seared results.

We are not dessert fans so we have passed, but the desserts at adjoining tables looked old fashion and wonderful.

The wine list was comprehensive with an excellent collection of New York, American and European wines. The prices were on the high side, when compared to other comparable restaurants. We have selected the excellent Wolffer Estate Chardonnay, which was well balance with rich fruits and citrus, which complemented our seasonal dishes.

BLT Market – Highly Recommended